Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
